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The earlier the better in fact, since most folk roll out of bed at 6am to offer alms to the resident monks (in a ceremony known as ).Luang Prabang has no shortage of either monasteries or wats (over thirty at the last count) and for many visitors this is the source of its charm. Located near the tip of the northern peninsular, it was built for the royal family in the 16th century and is a prime example of the area’s temple architecture.There is always an old fashioned recourse - walking, and the main town is small enough for some vigorous, or lazy, strolls past shophouses, wats and rows of saffron-robed monks seeking alms.Motorbike rental in Luang Prabang is frowned on for visitors, though there are some companies who will rent to you, ferry you out of the city centre, and let you explore farther afield from around per day.Top drawer luxury resorts have arrived too in Luang Prabang.Your arrival by bus will be greeted by a pleasant array of options.Lao Airlines still flies regularly and many like myself – pursuing this elusive Luang Prabang guide – still brave it without a hitch.The roads are still winding but they are mostly well kept, and banditry is less in evidence.

Glorious French-Indochinese architecture intertwines with peeling, traditional houses in a gaggle of small districts, each centred around a wat (temple).Look out for the large tree of life mosaic on the rear wall.The conical Phou Si wat at the top of the town’s central mound provides a great lookout for sunset, while the longboats stored at Wat Saen give you a sampler of the town’s boat festival in the autumn.This charmingly maintained medieval urban plan spurred UNESCO to tag the town as a World Heritage site in 1995, and it keeps a sharp eye on development in the area.

Many of the villas and shop houses have been carefully converted, meaning plenty of places to eat, stay, and shop.By 2017, humming Luang Prabang International Airport (luangprabangairport.com/) was being served by Bangkok Airways, Thai Airways, Singapore Airlines, Air Asia, Vietnam Airlines and a range of familiar international names like Emirates and Air France (through codeshare arrangements).